‘Sulphate-free’ appears on half the shelf and hardly anyone explains what it means. It is neither a fad nor a danger: it is a question of how much cleansing power your hair needs.
Short answer: A sulphate-free shampoo does not contain the surfactants SLS or SLES, which are the ones that lather and cleanse the most. It uses gentler cleansers instead. It works well on dry, curly or coloured hair or a sensitive scalp, because it cleans without stripping away as much natural oil.
In short
- SLS and SLES are the most common sulphates: Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Laureth Sulfate.
- They are not dangerous; they cleanse very strongly, and that dries out some hair types.
- Sulphate-free means less lather. Less lather does not mean less cleansing.
How to spot them on the label
Look for these names in the ingredients list (INCI): Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate. If they are not there, the shampoo is sulphate-free. The most common gentle cleansers are Coco-Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside and Cocamidopropyl Betaine. For silicones, see the guide to silicone-free shampoo.
Who it is worth it for
- Dry, curly or wavy hair.
- Coloured hair: the colour lasts better.
- A scalp that feels tight or itchy after washing.
- Anyone who washes their hair daily.
Sulphates and gentle cleansers, name by name
| Name on the label (INCI) | What it is | Cleansing strength |
|---|---|---|
| Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) | Sulphate | Very high |
| Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) | Sulphate | High |
| Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate | Sulphate | High |
| Sodium Coco-Sulfate | Coconut-derived sulphate | High |
| Coco-Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside | Glucosides | Gentle |
| Cocamidopropyl Betaine | Betaine | Gentle |
How to switch to a sulphate-free shampoo
- Wet your hair very thoroughly before applying the shampoo.
- Use a small amount and massage for longer, especially at the roots.
- Do two rounds if you use hairspray, wax or dry shampoo: the first removes the product and the second cleans.
- Add a clarifying shampoo once a week if your roots feel heavy or you live with hard water.
Which Nitiel product fits
DAILY HYDRA is a hydrating shampoo free from SLS and SLES, with organic aloe vera juice. It cleans gently and can be used daily. It is vegan, ECOCERT COSMOS Natural certified and 99 % of the formula is of natural origin.
Sources and references
- Hair Cosmetics: An Overview. M. F. R. Gavazzoni Dias, International Journal of Trichology (2015). Scientific review of surfactants, silicones, conditioners and protein hydrolysates in hair care.
- CosIng. European Commission. Official database of cosmetic ingredients: look up any INCI name on a label and see its function.
Frequently asked questions
Does a sulphate-free shampoo clean just as well?
It cleans everyday dirt without any problem. If you use a lot of hairspray or dry shampoo, add a purifying shampoo once a week.
Why does it lather less?
Because gentle cleansers foam less. Wet your hair very thoroughly and massage for longer: the lather appears on the second wash.
Is Sodium Coco-Sulfate a sulphate?
Yes. It comes from coconut, but it is a sulphate with a cleansing strength similar to SLS. A shampoo that contains it is not sulphate-free.
Does a sulphate-free shampoo work for greasy hair?
Yes, as long as it cleans the roots well. If they feel heavy, do two rounds of shampoo or add a clarifying shampoo once a week.