Silicones are in a huge number of shampoos, conditioners and masks because they make hair feel soft and shiny straight away. The problem is not that they are there, but what happens when they build up wash after wash. Here we explain what they are, how to find them on the label and when it makes sense to switch to a silicone-free shampoo.
Short answer: You can spot silicones on the INCI list by endings such as -cone, -conol, -silane or -siloxane, for example dimethicone. They are not harmful, but the ones that do not dissolve in water build up. If your hair looks dull or your roots go flat even though you wash often, a deep cleanse and a silicone-free routine are worth trying.
In short
- Silicones coat the hair fibre: they give instant softness and shine, but some do not come off with a gentle shampoo and they build up.
- On the INCI list you can recognise them by endings such as -cone, -conol, -silane or -siloxane (for example, dimethicone or cyclopentasiloxane).
- If your hair feels heavy or dull, or your roots go flat even though you wash often, a cleanse that removes that residue and a silicone-free routine usually make a noticeable difference.
What silicones are and why they are used
They are synthetic ingredients that coat the surface of the hair. In doing so, they smooth the cuticle, reduce friction when combing and reflect light better. That is why a conditioner with silicones feels very slippery from the very first use.
They are not toxic or dangerous. The issue is a practical one: silicones that do not dissolve in water stay in the hair if the shampoo cannot remove them. Over the weeks, that residue adds to limescale from the water, dry shampoo or hairspray, and the hair loses movement.
How to tell if your shampoo contains silicones
Look at the ingredient list (INCI) on the back label. These are the most common ones:
| Name on the label | How it behaves |
|---|---|
| Dimethicone | The most common. It does not dissolve in water, so it tends to build up. |
| Amodimethicone | Sticks mainly to damaged areas. It also tends to build up. |
| Dimethiconol | Widely used in conditioners. It does not dissolve in water. |
| Cyclopentasiloxane / Cyclomethicone | Volatile: they partly evaporate, which is why they weigh less. |
| PEG-12 Dimethicone and others with "PEG" | Modified to dissolve in water, so they rinse out easily. |
Quick tip: if an ingredient ends in -cone, -conol, -silane or -siloxane, it is a silicone.
Signs they are building up
- Your hair looks dull even when freshly washed.
- Your roots go flat within a few hours.
- Masks and conditioners seem to do less and less.
- Your ends feel rough underneath but slippery on the surface.
How to switch to a silicone-free routine
- Start with a deep cleanse. A purifying shampoo like RESET WASH removes silicone, limescale and product residue without drying out the lengths. Use it twice a week, in two rounds: the first lifts, the second cleans.
- Change your conditioner. A silicone-free conditioner softens with other ingredients: DAILY SOFT with panthenol, DEEP HYDRATION with argan and coconut, or BLOOM SOFT with hydrolysed keratin if you have fine hair.
- If you have a lot of build-up at the roots, add a scalp scrub such as MINT DETOX once a week, before shampooing.
- To detangle without silicones, a leave-in mist such as KERAGLOSS on damp hair.
For the first few washes your hair may feel less slippery. That is normal: you are feeling your hair without a coating. Keep the routine going for three or four weeks before you judge it.
What softens hair instead of silicones
| What you want | Silicone-free ingredient | Where you find it at Nitiel |
|---|---|---|
| Everyday softness | Panthenol (provitamin B5) | DAILY SOFT |
| Moisture for dry hair | Argan and coconut oils | DEEP HYDRATION |
| Body for fine hair | Hydrolysed keratin | BLOOM SOFT |
| Leave-in shine | Hydrolysed keratin in a mist | KERAGLOSS |
Silicone-free and certified
The ECOCERT COSMOS standard does not allow silicones. So if a formula carries the COSMOS seal, you know it does not contain them. None of the Nitiel formulas contains silicones, and ten of the twelve are ECOCERT COSMOS certified. We explain it, with each formula’s code in the official directory, on our ECOCERT page.
Sources and references
- Hair Cosmetics: An Overview. M. F. R. Gavazzoni Dias, International Journal of Trichology (2015). Scientific review of surfactants, silicones, conditioners and protein hydrolysates in hair care.
- CosIng. European Commission. Official database of cosmetic ingredients: look up any INCI name on a label and see its function.
Frequently asked questions
Are silicones bad for your hair?
They are not harmful. The drawback is that the ones that do not dissolve in water build up if they are not removed properly, and hair ends up heavy and dull. If your hair is fine with them, there is no need to give them up.
Does a sulphate-free shampoo remove silicones?
Not always. Very gentle shampoos clean the surface but may not remove silicones that do not dissolve in water. That is why a deeper cleanse once or twice a week is a good idea.
Does a silicone-free conditioner detangle just as well?
It detangles, but it feels different: less slippery and more natural. If you have long or curly hair, apply it to towel-dried hair and comb through with your fingers before rinsing.
Is it suitable for colour-treated hair?
Yes. In fact, because no residue builds up, the colour usually looks cleaner. For the first two weeks after colouring, space the deep cleanse out to once a week.
Not sure which combination suits you? Take the hair quiz: five questions and we will tell you which ritual suits your hair.