You look at your roots, see flakes and think of dandruff. Sometimes it is. Many other times it is residue: poorly rinsed shampoo, mask, dry shampoo, hairspray and minerals from tap water that stay behind wash after wash.
Short answer: Build-up is residue from dry shampoo, hairspray, silicone, sebum and limescale: it leaves roots heavy and hair dull, and a deep cleanse removes it. Dandruff is the skin flaking, with thicker, yellowish flakes that keep coming back even when you wash well. If it persists, have a dermatologist look at it.
In short
- Build-up is residue from products, sebum and limescale; dandruff is the skin flaking.
- Build-up goes with a deep cleanse and a weekly scrub; persistent dandruff is one for a dermatologist.
- If you live in a hard-water area, limescale also builds up in your hair.
How to tell them apart
- Residue: fine flakes, the colour of the product you use, which appear mainly if you use dry shampoo or styling products. Hair feels heavy and dull a few hours after washing.
- Dandruff: thicker, yellowish, greasy flakes and persistent itching. It comes back every few days even when you wash well.
A test at home: wash with a purifying shampoo and watch the next two days. If the flakes disappear and your hair gets its movement back, it was residue. If they come back the same, it is something else and worth getting checked.
If it is residue
What works is removing it, not covering it with more product:
- Exfoliate your roots once a week. MINT DETOX sweeps away sebum, dead skin cells and dry shampoo residue before you wash.
- Wash with a purifying shampoo twice a week. RESET WASH removes limescale, silicone and residue, with no SLS or SLES.
- Rinse for longer than you think. Half of the residue is shampoo that never got rinsed out.
- Apply conditioner from mid-lengths to ends, never on the roots.
If you suspect it is dandruff
It is not a cosmetic problem and we are not going to treat it as one: ask your pharmacist or a dermatologist for advice. In the meantime, avoid scratching and do not pile on strong treatments, which only irritate the skin more.
Water matters too
In much of Spain the water is hard. That calcium settles on the fibre and is one of the reasons hair looks dull even when you wash it often. A weekly purifying wash makes up for it; on the other days you do not need it.
You can see the products for this case in greasy roots.
A table to tell them apart
| Product build-up | Dandruff | |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | Residue from dry shampoo, hairspray, silicone, sebum and limescale | Flaking of the skin on the scalp |
| Appearance | Dull look, heavy roots, hair without shine | White or yellowish flakes |
| When it appears | Gets worse with more product and hard water | Appears even if you change products |
| What helps | A deep cleanse and a weekly scrub | See your dermatologist |
A simple test
For two weeks, stop using dry shampoo and hairspray, and wash twice a week with a purifying shampoo in two rounds, such as RESET WASH, plus a scalp scrub once a week, such as MINT DETOX. If your roots feel lighter and the flakes disappear, it was build-up. If nothing changes or there is intense itching, see your dermatologist.
How to tell if your water is hard
- You see white limescale marks on taps, the shower screen and glasses.
- Soap does not lather much.
- Over the weeks, your hair loses its shine and feels rough.
If so, a deep cleanse twice a week helps remove the limescale that stays in your hair.
What not to do
- Add more product to hide it: it only adds more residue.
- Scratch off the flakes.
- Change shampoo every few days: you cannot see what is working.
Sources and references
- Tips for healthy hair. American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). Dermatologists’ guidance on how often to wash depending on the scalp and where to apply shampoo and conditioner.
- Cosméticos. Spanish Agency of Medicines and Medical Devices (AEMPS). The Spanish authority for cosmetics: what a cosmetic is and how it differs from a medicine.
- Cosmetics. European Commission. The legal framework for cosmetics in the EU, including the mandatory notification of every product on the CPNP portal before it goes on sale.
Frequently asked questions
Does product build-up cause itching?
It can make your roots feel loaded and a little itchy. If the itching is intense or persistent, see your dermatologist.
How often should you do a deep cleanse?
Twice a week, with your usual shampoo on the other days if you need it.
Does a purifying shampoo treat dandruff?
No. It is a cosmetic that removes product residue. Dandruff is one for a dermatologist.
Does dry shampoo cause build-up?
Yes, if you use it several days in a row without a deep cleanse.
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