Many labels say ‘with keratin’ and ‘vegan’ on the same line. That is not always possible. Here is where keratin comes from and how to tell a vegan formula from one that is not.
Short answer: Keratin is an animal protein: the kind used in cosmetics usually comes from wool or feathers, so it is not vegan. What is sold as ‘plant keratin’ is proteins or amino acids from wheat, soya or maize that imitate its effect. To check, look for ‘Hydrolyzed Keratin’ in the ingredients list.
In short
- Hydrolysed keratin is of animal origin: a product that contains it is not vegan.
- ‘Plant keratin’ is not keratin: it is plant proteins with a similar effect on the fibre.
- On the label it appears as Hydrolyzed Keratin; the plant-based ones, as Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein or similar.
What keratin does for your hair
Hair is made mostly of keratin. Hydrolysed keratin is very short fragments of that protein that attach to the areas where the fibre has been damaged by colouring, straighteners or the sun. Hair feels softer and less frizzy.
How we do it at Nitiel
We state it formula by formula. Five products contain hydrolysed keratin of animal origin and are not vegan: MINT DETOX, MASK REPAIR, KERAGLOSS, VOLUMINIX and BLOOM SOFT. The other seven in the range are vegan. You will find the details in Nitiel in numbers.
Animal keratin vs ‘plant keratin’: the differences
| Hydrolysed keratin | ‘Plant keratin’ | |
|---|---|---|
| Where it comes from | Wool or feathers | Wheat, soya, rice, maize or amino acids |
| Name on the label (INCI) | Hydrolyzed Keratin | Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Amino Acids |
| Is it vegan? | No | Yes, if the rest of the formula is too |
| What it does for hair | Smooths and reduces frizz until the next wash | Smooths and hydrates; a similar, also temporary effect |
How to tell if a keratin product is vegan
- Read the INCI list, not the front. ‘With keratin’ does not say where it comes from.
- Look for ‘Hydrolyzed Keratin’. If it is there, the product is not vegan.
- If you only see plant proteins or amino acids, it may be vegan: check for a vegan mark or ask the brand.
Which Nitiel product fits
If you are looking for keratin, MASK REPAIR is the intensive mask: five minutes from mid-lengths to ends, once a week. It is ECOCERT COSMOS Natural certified and is not vegan. If you want a vegan option for dry ends, DEEP HYDRATION contains wheat protein, argan and coconut.
Sources and references
- Hair Cosmetics: An Overview. M. F. R. Gavazzoni Dias, International Journal of Trichology (2015). Scientific review of surfactants, silicones, conditioners and protein hydrolysates in hair care.
- CosIng. European Commission. Official database of cosmetic ingredients: look up any INCI name on a label and see its function.
- The Vegan Trademark. The Vegan Society. Criteria of the international vegan mark: no ingredients of animal origin.
- COSMOS-standard. The body behind the COSMOS standard (Natural and Organic) that ECOCERT certifies against; includes the public directory of certified products.
Frequently asked questions
Does hydrolysed keratin straighten hair?
No. The keratin in a shampoo or a mask smooths and reduces frizz, but it does not change the shape of your hair. Salon keratin straightening is a different process altogether.
Can a product be ECOCERT certified and not vegan?
Yes. ECOCERT COSMOS certifies the natural origin of the ingredients and the process, not that they are of plant origin. They are two separate labels.
Does plant keratin repair hair as well as animal keratin?
Neither repairs hair permanently: both settle on the fibre and wash out over time. Hydrolysed keratin is chemically closer to hair’s own protein, but in cosmetic use plant proteins give a very similar result: softer hair with less frizz.
Is keratin vegetarian?
It depends on the source: keratin from wool does not involve killing the animal, while feather keratin is usually a by-product of the meat industry. As labels rarely say which, most vegetarians and vegans avoid it.